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Grow Your Own Flavorful Tomatoes

Unlock the secrets to cultivating, caring for, and harvesting the tastiest tomatoes in your home garden.

There’s nothing quite like the taste of a homegrown tomato – bursting with flavor and freshness that store-bought varieties can only dream of matching. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll take you through the rewarding journey of growing your own tomatoes, covering everything from selecting the right varieties for your climate to dealing with pests and diseases. Get ready to transform your vegetable plot into a tomato haven!

The Appeal of Open Pollinated Tomato Varieties

Supermarket tomatoes may look flawless, but they often lack the rich, complex flavors that characterise homegrown varieties. Commercially produced tomatoes prioritise shelf life and appearance over taste. In contrast, open-pollinated tomatoes offer a spectrum of sizes, shapes, colours, and flavours, making them a delightful addition to your garden. Plus, research suggests that homegrown tomatoes boast a more intricate chemistry, potentially contributing to better taste and increased health benefits, thanks to higher levels of the antioxidant pigment ‘Lycopene.’

Exploring Tomato Variety Types

Before delving into the growing process, it’s essential to understand the various tomato types:

Standard: Medium-sized, all-purpose tomatoes available in red or yellow.
Beefsteak: Large Mediterranean-style tomatoes perfect for sandwiches and salads.
Plum: Ideal for canning and making pasta sauce.
Cherry: Small, round fruits with excellent flavor, including the must-try ‘Sungold.’

Understanding Growth Habits

Tomatoes come in different growth habits, each with its unique characteristics:

Indeterminate or Cordon Varieties: Tall plants that require support and produce side shoots.
Determinate or Bush Varieties: Compact, suitable for containers or limited spaces.
Dwarf Varieties: Tiny and ideal for container gardening.

Choosing the Right Location

Tomatoes thrive in sub-tropical conditions, requiring full sun exposure. In cooler climates, consider a polytunnel or greenhouse to ensure proper ripening. Optimal soil conditions involve a fertile substrate with well-rotted manure, while raised beds can provide the necessary moisture without waterlogging.

When to Grow and Planting Process

Start by sowing seeds indoors between late February and mid-March, ensuring a warm environment for germination. Transplant seedlings when they reach approximately 15cm in height. The choice between indeterminate and determinate varieties influences the support system needed. For leggy plants, planting deeper encourages additional root growth, creating a sturdier foundation.

Caring for Your Tomato Crop

For cordon varieties, diligent pruning of side shoots is crucial to maintain the desired growth pattern. Adequate watering and feeding are essential components of tomato care. Employ watering reservoirs for efficient moisture distribution and feed weekly with organic solutions such as comfrey or seaweed tonic.

Tackling Tomato Troubles: Pests and Diseases

While outdoor tomatoes are generally resilient, vigilance is necessary to combat potential issues. Whiteflies and aphids can be addressed through physical removal or beneficial insects like ladybirds. Tomato blight and mosaic virus require early detection and appropriate measures, such as biological controls for whiteflies.

Harvesting and Storage Tips

Harvest tomatoes at their peak ripeness for the best flavor. In case of frost threats, timely harvesting and indoor ripening are advised. Store tomatoes unwashed at room temperature unless planning for an extended period, in which case cooler temperatures aid preservation.

In conclusion, growing your own tomatoes is a rewarding endeavor that promises unmatched flavor and variety. Follow these guidelines to embark on a successful tomato-growing journey, bringing the vibrant taste of homegrown produce to your table.

Plants At The Paddock Feb 24

By Ciaran Burke

It is February, and there is a brief respite from the rain, sunlight transforms the garden, dull greys and drab browns become shining stones and warm woody stems, the earth beneath my feet is full with promises.
I wander around, inspired by snowdrops, resilient white blooms, and encouraged by bloated red buds of peony roses rising from the soil. I reach The Corner, every garden has it’s problem spots, this is one common to many rural gardens, the bio-cycle, or what we used to call a septic tank.

Two circular concrete slabs, house covered openings to our waste and washings, provide the stages for container gardening displays. The surrounding area is mulched with stone and had been planted years before my arrival at The Paddock.
Heathers bloom in winter and spring, Choisya ternata and Hypericum ‘Hidcote’ provide an evergreen backdrop and floral displays while Geranium ‘Rozanne’ and Geums wander over the stones. In winter a fragrant Sarocococca confusa scents the air.

This unlikely corner of wastewater treatment has brought me a surprising amount of joy, the existing planting and my pot grown contributions combine to provide floral and foliage interest throughout the year.
In this area I use terracotta pots, and the odd plastic one too. In summer and autumn, Canna blooms above tropical leaves, providing a vulgar display of brash red blooms is Begonia Whopper ‘Dragon Wings’; reminiscent of the wax leaved Begonia semperflorens commonly used for summer bedding, but on a massive of amount of steroids and growth hormones! Dark waxy leaves and stems reach 60cm high adorned by bright red blooms throughout summer until first frost in November. It is solitary in its pot, there is no room for shared space.
Other lone dwellers inhabit adjacent pots, Plectranthus argenteus has super silver leaves, a tender perennial that can be over-wintered by rooting cuttings in a glass of water on the kitchen windowsill: it will soon be time to pot them up and move out to the glasshouse. Beside it, the evergreen shrub Coronilla valentina subsp. glauca ‘Citrina’ spread over a big pot, the small evergreen leaves are only without flowers during summer, from September to May, pale yellow pea-like flowers are scented and produced non-stop. Alstroemeria ‘Indian Sunmer’ has been a surprise, the same plant has been happily living in the same pot for the least three years, and it has had little attention. Dark bronze leaves are the perfect foil for the hot orange and red blooms, a long flowering variety of Peruvian lily that starts in early summer and will only be stopped by the frost.

The year-round star has to be Anisondontea capensis, a plant I purchased from work a few years ago, a mallow relative, a shrub trained as a small standard, and covered in pink cups shaped blooms. The first year it grew big, and I some how struggled it into the greenhouse over winter. The following year, it was not going to fit, so it has it’s first winter trial outside in the cold of the winter 22/23. It survived and thrived. Just this morning, I was admiring the abundance of the pink blooms, it is literally in flower 365 days, well 366 this year.
It is a plant that asks for little attention. I gave it a light trim last spring, and top dressed with compost and added slow release fertilizer.
Every week from April to September, I give all the pots a liquid feed, sometimes tomato food, others it is Miracle -Gro, to be honest I do not think it makes much difference as long as you give your pots a feed, I have not found that the plants have a preference for a particular brand or type.

When planting containers, I fill them entirely with compost from bottom to top, I never include a drainage layer of crocks or stones, the science does not back up such practice.
One new plant that I have just added is a wonderful, variegated Dianella, D. tasmanica ‘Wyeena’. Dianella is an evergreen perennial, sometimes encountered in Irish gardens, admired for its blue berries in Autumn. This variegated variety has stunning white striped leaves with an arching habit, I am excited by this plant, it will be stunning in pots and make eye catching mass planting displays.

So now as February is about to turn to March, my mind is thinking of pots for summer. Begonia Whopper ‘Dragon Wings’ will be purchased in May, Plectranthus argenteus will be grown in the greenhouse, I have just purchased some new tubers of Begonia and some Dahlia too, these will be potted now to encourage early growth, planted into pots when the frost has passed, and enjoyed until the frost returns again.
To see more about The Paddock visit my website: ciaranthegardener.com

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Website: www.ciaranthegardener.com

Growing Sweet Peas: A Comprehensive Guide for Blooming Success

Sweet peas, with their delicate fragrance and vibrant colors, add charm to any garden. To cultivate these lovely flowers successfully, consider the following expert tips on where, when, and how to grow sweet peas.

Where to Grow Sweet Peas:
The key to flourishing sweet peas lies in providing the right environment. Choose a location with fertile soil that retains moisture while ensuring proper drainage. Sweet peas thrive in full sun, so find a spot where they can bask in the sunshine.

When to Plant Sweet Peas:
For optimal results, sow sweet pea seeds between October and April. Aim for late October/November or late February/March to avoid midwinter challenges. Direct sowing into the ground is also possible in April or May. Plant seedlings during a mild spell between March and May.

How to Plant Sweet Peas:

Sowing Sweet Pea Seeds:

Sweet pea seeds have a hard coat; consider soaking them in liquid seaweed fertilizer before sowing.
Use rootrainers or loo rolls for a deep, narrow root run, promoting healthy growth.
Sow seeds in peat-free, multi-purpose potting compost, planting two seeds per pot.
Germinate in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame in autumn or spring, or on a windowsill in midwinter.
Regularly check for germination, keeping the seedlings cool at around 5°C (40°F).
Pinch out leaders when there are three or four pairs of leaves to encourage side shoot formation.

Planting Sweet Pea Seedlings:

Plant seedlings outdoors in March-May, ensuring a mild spell.
Use organic material like farmyard manure in the planting position and provide vertical support.
Surround plants with slug prevention, using a strip of washed inland sharp sand.
Tie young plants into the frame regularly to promote strong growth.
Feed every couple of weeks with a tomato or comfrey feed.

Growing Sweet Peas in a Pot:

Choose a deep container pot with a climbing frame for compact or dwarf varieties.
Create a DIY teepee with birch or hazel twigs for container-grown sweet peas.

How to Care for Sweet Peas:

Watering:

Ensure thorough watering, especially during dry periods, to prevent stress.

Fertilizing:

Feed sweet peas every couple of weeks with a general fertilizer or potash-rich tomato feed.

Staking:

Provide vertical support using a teepee or arch, tying in plants regularly for optimal growth.

Deadheading:

Regularly remove seed pods to prevent seed formation and encourage continuous flower production.

Propagating:

Collect and store seeds for propagation in winter, understanding that resulting plants may vary slightly from the parent.

By following these guidelines, you’ll cultivate robust and vibrant sweet peas, ensuring a stunning display in your garden.

Snowdrop Day and Winter Delights at Coosheen

By Hester Forde

It was wonderful to see so many RHSI snowdrop enthusiasts visit Coosheen for a guided tour of the snowdrop collection and the winter garden. The weather was kind, and the morning began with tea, coffee, and scones. Winter is a very special time in the garden and a time to really see the backbone of the garden. Trees reveal a fine tracery of branches and provide amazing shapes, sculptural when backlit by low sunshine. Lifting the “skirt” and limbing up were discussed in detail. Several Japanese maples have beautiful and elaborate, intricate shapes. Cultivars such as Acer palmatum, including “Inba Shidare,” “Shaina,” “Beni-Makio,” and “Villa Taranto.”

Scent is especially important in winter and early spring. Hamamelis (Witch Hazel) is one of the best for scent, and the wonderful spidery flowers of H. Aphrodite and H. Wisley Supreme were in abundance. Perhaps one of my favorites is Daphne, known as the Goddess of the wood. Two new additions to the garden were greatly admired: Daphne bholua “Mary Rose” and Daphne bholua “Cobahy Purple Clouds.” Cultivars and hybrids of Daphne bholua are the most dramatic of the genus. Their scent is utterly intoxicating.

Snowdrops, of course, stole the show, and drifts of Galanthus Atkinsii and Elwesii were at their best. Discussions on how to grow, feed, and divide were among the topics discussed. Hellebores had already begun to flower and make an impact, and their great variation in color and form were giving their best.

A winter garden is special; it enables us to go outdoors and embrace nature in that nice weather and also see that spring is well and truly on the way.

Naming A New Snowdrop by Hester Forde

At our annual Snowdrop Gala, regular attendees include Brian and Betty Duncan, who make the trip south year after year. On February 3rd, 2024, Brian celebrated a significant milestone – his 90th birthday. To mark the occasion on January 26th, a snowdrop was presented to Brian and Betty, welcoming them into the world of the famed galanthophiles.

The snowdrop in question is a late, large-flowering elwesii variety, highly scented, long-flowering, and with large olive-colored ovaries. A simple horseshoe inner green marking is also noted.

The history of the snowdrop traces back to Helen Dillon and was given to Assumpta Broomfield, and then to Altamont over 25 years ago. It was always known as “that good snowdrop.” Years of division and care by Robert Miller at the walled garden have kept it thriving. The snowdrop will be officially named B and B Duncan (Brian and Betty Duncan).

Many thanks to Robert Miller for giving the snowdrop.

BELLEFIELD SNOWDROP DAYS

We were delighted to welcome 750 people to Bellefield last week to enjoy the wonderful display of
snowdrops. The wet weather created significant parking problems, thanks you for your patience and
understanding, we’ve just pushed parking facilities to the top of our ‘to-do’ list!
The response of visitors to RHSI Bellefield is heartening, kind words and enthusiasm for the tours,
the hospitality and the ambiance of the place.
Huge thanks are due, as ever, to our wonderful volunteers who worked so hard all weekend, in
challenging conditions. We couldn’t do it without you!
Thank you for visiting and if you didn’t make it this time, there are plenty of other weekends to
come in 2024.

Philip Hollwey, Chair

 

Airfield Estate Gardens

Ardan Garden

Ballintubbert Gardens and House

Ballycommane Garden

Ballyedmond Castle Garden

Ballymaloe Cookery School

Ballyrobert Gardens

Bantry House and Garden

Belvedere House Gardens & Park

Benvarden Garden

Birr Castle Demesne

Blarney Castle and Gardens

Burtown House and Gardens

Caher Bridge Garden

Colclough Walled Garden

Collon House

Coolaught Walled Garden

Coolwater Garden

Dawros Gallery & Garden

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Dower House

Drimbawn Garden

Dromana House and Gardens

Festina Lente

Fota House – Victorian Working Garden

Gash Gardens

Glenarm Castle Walled Garden

Glenavon Japanese Garden

Hester Forde Garden – ‘Coosheen Garden’

Hillsborough Castle and Gardens

Hunting Brook Gardens

Irish National Stud and Gardens – The Japanese Gardens and St. Fiachra’s Garden

Johnstown Castle, Estate, Museum and Gardens

June Blake’s Garden

Kilfane Glen and Waterfall

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Killyreagh Garden

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Kylemore Abbey and Victorian Walled Garden

Lodge Park Walled Garden

Loughcrew Gardens

Medina

Mount Congreve Gardens

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Rowallane Garden

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Woodville Walled Garden

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