As the festive season approaches, we wanted to let you know that the RHSI Walled Garden at Russborough will take a Christmas break from 18th December and will reopen on 8th January 2025. After that, our usual opening hours will resume, with the garden welcoming visitors on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 10:30 to 15:30, during the times when our wonderful volunteers are at work.

A special thank you to our dedicated volunteers who brought festive cheer to Russborough this December by creating beautiful Christmas wreaths and decorations. Their creativity and effort truly made the season brighter! We were delighted to host two wreath-making sessions, each followed by a warm and convivial lunch in the café and a tour of the house, generously arranged by ABF.

Our volunteers’ hard work and enthusiasm breathe life into the Walled Garden, making it a place of inspiration and joy for all who visit. If you haven’t had a chance to see their incredible work or to experience the magic of the garden, we’d love for you to join us in the New Year.

Thank you for your continued support, and we wish you a very Merry Christmas and a happy and peaceful New Year!

Extract from Irish Seed Savers

It’s that wonderful time of year when our exclusive collection of bareroot Irish heritage apple trees are available to purchase online! This is a unique opportunity to bring a piece of Ireland’s rich agricultural history into your garden or orchard. Each tree in our collection comes from traditional Irish varieties—many rescued from near extinction and grown with care to preserve their original, resilient genetics.

By planting native Irish apple trees grown and nurtured by Irish Seed Savers, you’re helping to preserve Ireland’s rich natural heritage. These apple trees provide food for pollinators, support local wildlife, and foster healthy soil biodiversity. Native apple trees are specially adapted to Ireland’s climate and soils, making them a natural fit for our ecosystems and a critical part of our landscape’s resilience.

Every purchase directly supports Irish Seed Savers mission to protect Ireland’s food heritage and ensures these precious varieties remain for future generations. Grown in County Clare, our apple trees are Guaranteed Irish and registered for the ACRES Scheme. Quantities are limited, so don’t miss this chance to add a piece of Ireland’s natural history to your landscape.

Visit our website today to browse the full selection and order your Irish heritage apple tree!

Winter pruning is essential to keep apple and pear trees healthy, productive, and in check. For those new to fruit tree care, this guide simplifies winter pruning essentials to help you shape a balanced, open-centered tree that will flourish come spring.

Top Winter Pruning Tips
Prune between November and March when trees are dormant.
Aim for an open, goblet-shaped crown to improve light and airflow.
Only remove about 10-20% of the canopy to avoid excess regrowth.
Tackle vigorous growth in summer to manage oversized trees.

Why Prune in Winter?
Winter pruning for apples and pears helps control size, improve air circulation, and boost fruit quality. An open-centered crown lets light penetrate the tree and encourages a healthy harvest by reducing pests and disease risk.

Before You Start
Choose a dry, mild winter day, and gather your tools:

Secateurs, loppers, and a pruning saw for cuts of different sizes.
A sturdy ladder, ideally a tripod type, for stability.
Gloves and eye protection – pruning can be scratchy work!

Step-By-Step: Winter Pruning Basics
Remove Dead, Damaged, or Diseased Wood
Start by cutting out any dead, damaged, or unhealthy branches. This is essential for maintaining the tree’s overall health.

Eliminate Crossing Branches
Look for branches that rub or cross, which can create wounds. Keep the healthier, outward-facing branches and remove the weaker ones to promote an open, goblet shape.

Prune Strong Vertical Growth
Cut back overly strong vertical shoots that grow towards the tree’s center to keep the canopy open. Leave shorter, weaker shoots (up to 20 cm long) as they won’t block light.

Shorten Last Year’s Growth
On each main branch, trim last year’s growth by about a quarter to a third, cutting above an outward-facing bud. This stimulates side shoots, where next year’s fruit will develop.

Mind the Fruiting Habits
Apple and pear trees produce fruit in different ways (on spurs, tips, or a combination). While modern pruning methods are relaxed, it’s wise to know your tree’s fruiting style:

Spur-bearers: Thin out old fruiting spurs (short, stubby shoots) to keep about 10-15 cm apart.
Tip-bearers and partial tip-bearers: Prune with caution to avoid cutting off fruiting wood. Trim longer branches by a quarter to reduce length but maintain fruiting potential.

Reduce Large, Mature Trees as Needed
For large or vigorous trees, shorten main branches by up to a third. Prune to a strong side-branch growing outwards to keep the tree open and manageable.

Overgrown or Extra-Vigorous Trees?
If your tree grows too vigorously despite regular winter pruning, add a summer pruning session. Summer pruning helps to reduce growth energy:

Cut back side-shoots longer than 30 cm, trimming them to 15 cm.
Focus on the most vigorous shoots, leaving less active growth unpruned.

Pruning Problems and Solutions
Apple Canker: Remove any canker-affected branches during pruning.
Lichen and Moss: Generally harmless, but heavy growth on young shoots might indicate poor vigor.
Biennial Bearing: Some trees produce uneven harvests, with large yields one year and sparse fruit the next. Pruning consistently each year can help reduce this effect.

With these straightforward steps, winter pruning doesn’t have to be daunting. You’ll enjoy the reward of healthier, more productive apple and pear trees that bring fruit (and beauty!) to your garden each year.

Happy pruning

Orlaith

As November settles in and the garden prepares for a long winter nap, there’s still plenty to keep gardeners busy! From planting late-bloomers to protecting pots and making use of fallen leaves, here’s your guide to making the most of these cooler days. Grab a warm drink and head outside for a little pre-winter prep!

Top Tips for November Gardening
Plant bare-root roses and hedges
Leave perennials with attractive seed heads
Insulate pots from frost
Start a leaf pile for free mulch
Layer bulbs in pots for spring color
Prep your pond before it freezes

1. Tidy Up, but Don’t Cut Back Too Soon
It’s tempting to chop everything down, but some plants, like Sedum and ornamental grasses (Miscanthus), look gorgeous frosted over. Leaving 15 cm of old growth on perennials helps protect plants from winter damage and provides shelter for garden wildlife.
*Leave seed heads of Phlomis and Echinacea for goldfinches.

2. Plant Bare-Root Roses
November is the prime time for bare-root roses. They’re affordable and adapt well, especially when planted before deep winter. Upon arrival, soak the roots in water for a few hours, then plant with the graft union at soil level.
*Top off with a good layer of mulch like compost or manure.

3. Make Use of Fallen Leaves
Raking leaves can feel endless, but those heaps have potential! Avoid burning; instead, collect non-evergreen leaves to decompose into leaf mould – a fabulous, nutrient-rich mulch for spring.
*Try a simple DIY chicken-wire frame to contain the pile.

4. Get Ready for Winter’s Snowy Blanket
Snow may look intimidating, but it insulates plants from harsher frosts. If snow gets heavy, clear only branches at risk of breaking. Appreciate the garden’s bare beauty – it’s a time to celebrate the structure of trees, shrubs, and formal hedges.
*Shrubby Cornus, or dogwood, is stunning in winter, with fiery stem colors from red to orange.

5. Protect Potted Plants
Outdoor pots need a bit of TLC in winter. Grouping pots together and wrapping them in bubble wrap or hessian helps insulate roots from the cold. Remember that not all terracotta pots are frost-proof, even if they claim to be frost-resistant.
*Place pots near walls for extra warmth and shield from cold winds.

6. Plant Tulips for Spring Splendor
November is the ideal time for tulips. Plant bulbs in well-drained soil or containers – they need depth (two to three times their size) and a sunny spot to thrive. For extended blooming, layer different types of bulbs in planters.
*Add coarse grit to improve drainage in clay-heavy soil.

7. Give Your Pond Some Attention
Before temperatures drop, scoop out any debris from the pond to prevent gas build-up under the ice, which can harm fish. If you haven’t already, cover it with netting to reduce fallen leaves.
*Float a small piece of polystyrene to keep a section of the pond ice-free.

8. Don’t Forget the Vegetable Patch
The veggie garden may look quiet, but it’s not over yet! Now’s the time to add a blanket of compost or manure mulch to protect from the inevitable rain.. You can also plant hardy broad beans and garlic to harvest in winter and early spring.

With these simple but essential November tasks, you’ll set your garden up beautifully for winter while ensuring a lively return come spring. So bundle up, get outside, and enjoy the last of autumn’s glow!

Happy gardening

Orlaith

Rediscovering Ugni molinae: The Fragrant, Flavorful Chilean Guava

If you’re searching for a unique, flavorful addition to your garden that’s both eye-catching and delectable, look no further than Ugni molinae, also known as Myrtus ugni, Chilean guava, strawberry myrtle, or New Zealand cranberry. Native to South America, this small, evergreen shrub has steadily gained popularity in home gardens and commercial landscaping around the world, thanks to its delicious berries, compact size, and beautiful foliage. Let’s dive into everything you need to know about growing, caring for, and enjoying this exceptional plant.

What is Ugni molinae?
Ugni molinae, Myrtus ugni or Chilean guava, is a compact, evergreen shrub that belongs to the myrtle family (Myrtaceae). It’s known for its small, glossy, dark green leaves, delicate white to pink flowers, and, most importantly, its small, aromatic red berries. These berries are often described as tasting like a mix of strawberry, guava, and even pineapple, with a hint of spice, making them highly coveted among fruit enthusiasts.

Chilean guava is sometimes referred to as “murtilla” in its native Chile, where it grows in the wild. It’s a relatively low-maintenance plant that can thrive in both garden beds and containers, making it ideal for a variety of growing conditions.

A relatively unknown gem in many gardens, Ugni molinae captured the attention of European plant collectors back in the 19th century. Described in 1809 by the Italian Jesuit priest and naturalist Juan Ignacio Molina, it was featured in his influential book, The Geographical, Natural and Civil History of Chili. The book caught the eye of the renowned English horticultural firm Veitch, who saw this little shrub’s potential and dispatched plant hunter William Lobb to Chile. He brought it back to England in 1851, where it soon began to flourish in English gardens. Rumor has it that even Queen Victoria became a devoted fan, enjoying the berries fresh from the milder gardens of Cornwall. Today, this rare treasure deserves a second look for its hardiness, beauty, and delectable berries.

Let’s explore what makes this long-overlooked plant so unique—and how you can enjoy it in your own garden.

Breathtaking Aroma
What really sets Ugni molinae apart is its incredible fragrance, especially as its berries begin to ripen from late summer into autumn. The shrub’s small, waxy, dark green leaves may be modest, but the air around it fills with the scent of ripe strawberries, luring passersby to sample its fruit. For the best flavor, however, patience is key: allowing the berries to fully mature into late-autumn yields the most intense, slightly sherbet-like strawberry taste—a truly rewarding experience.

Gorgeous Foliage and Blooms
Throughout late spring and summer, Ugni molinae graces gardens with pale pink, delicate blooms that contrast beautifully against its evergreen foliage. The leaves, often compared to other myrtle varieties, have a deep green, waxy quality that adds texture and visual interest even before the berries arrive. Growing to a modest size of about one meter by one meter unpruned, the plant is perfectly suited for smaller gardens or containers.

An Underappreciated Fruit with a Global Story
Although Ugni molinae is a beloved staple in South American markets, it is still somewhat rare to find its berries sold elsewhere. The little fruit, often just a bit larger than a blueberry, is packed with flavor and nutrients, including high levels of vitamin C and antioxidants.

Key Benefits of Growing Chilean Guava
Delicious and Nutritious Berries: The berries of Ugni molinae are packed with vitamin C, antioxidants, and fiber, making them a healthy addition to your diet.
Compact Size: With a mature height of only 1-2 meters, Chilean guava is a great choice for smaller gardens or container planting.
Ornamental Appeal: The glossy foliage, delicate flowers, and vibrant red berries make this shrub visually appealing year-round.
Hardiness: Chilean guava is quite hardy, capable of withstanding temperatures as low as -10°C (14°F), especially when protected.

How to Grow Ugni molinae
1. Ideal Growing Conditions
Climate: Chilean guava prefers cool, coastal climates similar to its native Chilean habitat. It does well in our climate, thriving in areas with mild winters and moderate summers.
Light: Full sun to partial shade. In hot climates, some afternoon shade is beneficial to prevent leaf scorching.
Soil: Well-draining, acidic soil is ideal though not a deal breaker! Like blueberries, Chilean guava appreciates slightly acidic conditions with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. However mine thrive in neutral conditions.
2. Planting
Site Preparation: Prepare the planting area by loosening the soil and adding organic matter such as compost to improve drainage and acidity.
Spacing: Space plants about 1 meter apart if planting in groups, or place a single plant in a 12-16 inch pot if container gardening.
Transplanting: For best results, plant young shrubs in early spring after the last frost. If planting in a container, use an acidic potting mix.
3. Watering and Mulching
Watering: Maintain even soil moisture, especially during dry periods. While Chilean guava is fairly drought-resistant once established, consistent moisture helps the berries reach full flavor and size. Avoid waterlogging, as Chilean guava does not like “wet feet.”
Mulching: Apply a layer of mulch around the base to conserve moisture, regulate soil temperature, and control weeds. Pine needles or bark chips are excellent choices as they also help to maintain soil acidity.
4. Fertilisation
Apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring to support new growth. Alternatively, an acidic fertilizer formulated for blueberries or azaleas can be beneficial. Avoid over-fertilizing, as this plant is sensitive to excessive nitrogen.
5. Pruning and Maintenance
Pruning: Light pruning in late winter or early spring can help maintain the plant’s shape and promote bushier growth. Remove any dead or damaged branches to keep the plant healthy.
Pest and Disease Control: Ugni molinae is relatively pest-resistant, but aphids or scale insects may occasionally appear. Use a gentle insecticidal soap if needed, and monitor for fungal issues if the plant becomes too wet.

Harvesting and Using Chilean Guava Berries
Chilean guava berries typically ripen in late Autumn, ours are just perfect now at the start of November . When ripe, the berries turn deep red, are slightly soft to the touch, and exude a sweet aroma.

Harvesting: Gently pull the berries off the stem, being careful not to damage the plant.
Eating Fresh: Enjoy them fresh, right off the plant! They have a unique, intense flavor that’s a delightful combination of tropical and berry notes.
Culinary Uses: Chilean guava berries can be used in a variety of ways. They’re perfect for:
Jams and Jellies: Their naturally high pectin content makes them ideal for preserves.
Desserts: Use them as a topping for cakes, pastries, and ice cream, or add them to smoothies.
Infusions: The berries’ aromatic qualities make them excellent for infusing into beverages like teas, cocktails, and even gin.

Common Challenges and Troubleshooting
Leaf Scorching: In hot climates, leaves may become scorched if exposed to intense afternoon sun. Move potted plants to a shadier spot or provide cover if growing in the ground.
Yellowing Leaves: If leaves start to turn yellow, it may be a sign of iron deficiency, often due to overly alkaline soil. Apply an acidifying fertilizer and check your soil pH to ensure it’s sufficiently acidic.

Final Thoughts
Chilean guava (Ugni molinae) is a rewarding plant that provides a perfect combination of ornamental beauty and edible bounty. With its unique taste, stunning appearance, and relatively low maintenance requirements, it’s a fantastic addition to any garden, large or small. Whether you’re an experienced horticulturist or a home gardener looking for something new, this South American gem is sure to impress.

So, if you’re ready to add a touch of exotic flavor and beauty to your garden, consider planting Ugni molinae. This little shrub might just become the centerpiece of your landscape—and your recipes!

Orlaith x

Courtesy of Mary and Tom Alexander

Saturday 2nd November 2024

All Proceeds to the RHSI Bellefield Library Development Fund

10.00-10.30: Registration
10.30: Welcome to Gloster – Mary and Tom Alexander
10.40: Developing the Gardens at Bellefield – Paul Smyth, Head Gardener at Bellefield
11.10: Some Significant Highlights from a 50-year scholarly sojourn in Ely O’Carroll and the South-West Midlands – George Cunningham, author and historian
11.40: Three Greenings of Ireland: woodland history through a longer lens – John Feehan, author and environmentalist
12.10: Wonders of the Bog; a seasonal journey through macrophotography – Tina Claffey, nature photographer
12.40- 1.40 Lunch (Bring your own; tea and coffee courtesy of Gloster)
1.45: Alternating groups exploring Gloster House, gardens and folly: display of incunabula (printing pre 1500) and and early printed material; small boutique book sale); Explore the gardens and folly with Dorothy Smith and GC.early printed material
4.00 end of session.

Numbers limited; booking essential – €37.00pp.    Get your ticket here 

Gloster House, Brosna, Birr, Co. Offaly. R42CH02

Meet the speakers

Paul Smyth 

We’re excited to introduce Paul Smyth, a renowned Irish gardener and horticultural expert!  With roots in the gardens of Bellefield House in County Offaly, Paul’s journey has taken him across the globe, from the top UK specialist nurseries to plant-hunting expeditions in Vietnam.  Now back in Ireland, Paul is making waves as Head Gardener at Bellefield House, co-author of Gardening Together, and co-host of the DIRT podcast

Dr. George Cunningham 

Introducing Dr. George Cunningham — author, historian, and passionate bibliophile.  With over twenty books and countless articles to his name, George has dedicated his life to heritage and environmental matters. His latest work? A reflective bibliography of John Feehan’s contributions. Currently, George is deep into years of research on Monaincha, set for publication in 2025, while serving as the honorary librarian for the RHSI at Bellefield House.

 Dr. John Feehan 

We’re thrilled to introduce Dr. John Feehan — botanist, geologist, and one of Ireland’s most renowned environmental scholars!  From creation spirituality to African mistletoes, John’s vast knowledge spans an incredible range of topics. The author of more than 30 books, his latest work focuses on The Brosna River, a true testament to his deep connection with Ireland’s landscapes.

Tina Claffey 

We’re excited to introduce Tina Claffey, an award-winning nature photographer and author whose breathtaking work reveals Ireland’s bogs and wetlands like never before.  Her stunning books, Tapestry of Light and Portal, showcase the otherworldly wonders of these landscapes through her unique macro lens.

Tina’s work has been featured on global platforms, from the Wildlife Habitat Council Online Conference in the US to the UN Climate Change Conference (COP 26), highlighting the critical importance of preserving Ireland’s bog wilderness.

Dorothy Smith 

We’re delighted to introduce Dorothy Smith, a dedicated gardener at Gloster House and a volunteer at Bellefield.  With a passion for cultivating beautiful spaces and working closely with nature, Dorothy is committed to nurturing both plants and community.  Her experience in gardening and love for the craft make her a valued part of the Bellefield team.

Using Foraged Foliage from Your Garden

Wreaths are no longer just reserved for Christmas! With the changing seasons, your garden becomes a treasure trove of vibrant foliage and flowers, perfect for creating beautiful, natural wreaths that add a cosy, autumnal touch to your home. Whether for your front door, mantle, or a focal point in your living room, a homemade wreath crafted from foraged materials brings a sense of warmth and connection to nature.

Forage in Your Garden: A Simple Pleasure

Making a Autumn wreath is easier than you might think, and best of all, you don’t need to be an expert florist to create something truly beautiful. A few clippings from your garden or local green spaces can go a long way. The key is to embrace the beauty of the season’s fading flowers, changing leaves, and wild berries.

In this guide, we’ll show you how to make a wreath that celebrates autumn using supplies you can easily forage. It’s a relaxing, creative activity that also allows you to bring a bit of the outside world into your home.

Supplies You’ll Need:

Secateurs (or any sharp garden scissors)
Florist wire
Vines (such as dogwood or willow)
Berries (like privet or rosehips)
Seasonal flowers (e.g., hydrangeas, goldenrod)
Foliage (anything that catches your eye—perhaps some colourful autumn leaves or ferns)

Step 1: Build Your Wreath Base

The first step is to create a sturdy base for your wreath using flexible vines. If you have dogwood or willow in your garden, these work wonderfully due to their long, bendy stems. Start with one stem, bend it into a circle, and tuck the ends in to secure it. Continue wrapping additional stems around the base until you’ve reached your desired thickness. Don’t worry about making it perfect—wreaths have a natural, slightly wild charm!

Step 2: Forage for Your Foliage

Now for the fun part—take a walk through your garden or nearby woodlands to gather your materials. You’ll be amazed at what nature offers in the autumn months. Look for flowers like hydrangeas and goldenrod, which will dry beautifully over time, along with berries, grasses, and textured foliage. Remember to clip a variety of shapes, sizes, and colours to create depth and interest in your design.

Pro tip: If you’re not sure what to use, start with what’s already fading and drying on the plant—it will keep longer once added to your wreath.

Step 3: Prepare Your Cuttings

Before you begin attaching your foliage to the base, remove any larger leaves from your clippings. As the wreath dries, leaves tend to fall off and can make a mess. Smaller, more delicate leaves or seed heads, however, will dry in place and add a lovely rustic feel.

Step 4: Start Arranging

Lay your foraged materials out in front of you and start arranging them on the wreath base. Don’t attach anything just yet—this is your chance to play around with different combinations and see what works best. Balance out textures and colours, perhaps placing clusters of berries next to a larger flower head or weaving in long grasses for movement.

Step 5: Attach Your Foliage

Once you’re happy with your arrangement, it’s time to start securing your cuttings. Attach the wire to the back of the wreath base, then wrap small bundles of flowers, berries, and foliage around the vine, securing each one with the wire as you go. Continue this process until your wreath is full and lush, leaving a 6-inch wire tail at the end to tie everything off.

Step 6: The Finishing Touches

To cover any visible wire, take a few more flexible vines or thin branches and weave them over the top of the wire, tucking in the ends to hide them. Flip the wreath over and twist any extra wire around the stems to secure them further.

Step back and admire your work! If you feel like your wreath could use a little more, don’t be afraid to zhuzh it up by adding extra flowers or berries. Just bundle them together with a bit more wire and tuck them into the wreath until it looks perfect to you.

Step 7: Hang and Enjoy!

All that’s left to do now is hang your autumn wreath in pride of place! Whether on your front door or displayed indoors, it will bring the beauty of the season right into your home.

Bonus: Embrace the Natural Fade

One of the wonderful things about using natural materials is watching how they evolve over time. As the flowers dry and the foliage fades, your wreath will take on a more rustic, earthy look. When it’s time to update your decor for Christmas, simply swap out the autumn foliage for festive evergreens, holly, or dried citrus slices.

Get Inspired by Nature

There’s something deeply rewarding about creating your own decorations, especially when you’ve foraged the materials yourself. It’s a way to slow down and appreciate the beauty of the changing seasons. So grab your secateurs, step into the garden, and see what autumn treasures await you. Happy foraging!

Orlaith

Published in RHSI Journal Autumn 2022

Box Blight
I live in a Georgian House in Old Connaught, near Bray. I have a garden circa one acre and a walled front garden with a pedestrian entrance. When we moved to this house in 1988 with our young family, I became interested in box hedging and planned out the front garden. I propagated all the plants from a box bush I rescued from a house in Shankill which was demolished in the early 1990s to make way for the M11. Over the next 20 years I propagated more than 130m of box and planted the front garden first
Photo 1 – View of front door with healthy box
I became inspired with the success of the box hedging and expanded into the back garden. I was aware of box blight but naively thought that as I had never used imported plants in the hedging, that my hedges were not vulnerable. Also, to my shame, I never fed the plants, and assumed my homemade compost was enough.
I have been careful to have the box cut by professionals and up to last December, 2021 all was well.
Just before Christmas, I noticed a large area of discoloured leaves on the top of the hedging leading up to the back door.
Photo 2 – View of first damaged leaves in December 2021

I immediately examined the rest of the box hedging and noticed some discolouration in other areas but it looked more like rust. I contacted the gardening advisory section available to RHS members, in Wisley, and asked for help. It was not an option to send diseased leaves and branches to the UK, but I sent photographs. One of the scientists replied very quickly to say it looked like box blight, probably Volutella buxi which is the less serious box blight and has been present in the UK and Ireland for many years. This fungus spreads in wet humid conditions and indeed we did have an exceptionally warm late autumn in 2021. Pinkish spores appear on the underside of the leaves, and are carried in water splashes to new sites. Fallen leaves carry the disease over the winter and new spores are produced in the spring. Volutella enters the plant through clipping cuts and other forms of damage to the leaves and stems.
The other box blight Cylindrocladium buxicola is more serious and has been present in the UK and Ireland since the mid-1990s. The leaves develop dark brown spots which enlarge to affect leaf tissues. Patches of greyish fungal growth appear on the underside of the leaves and spores are soon released to spread infection. Black streaks appear on the stems. The spores are capable of penetrating the leaf surface, so wounding via pruning cuts is not necessary for infection to occur. The infected leaves easily fall off the plant and the stems are typically left bare. Cylindrocladium requires moist conditions to thrive, so the spores die in dry conditions. Live spores have been found in decomposing leaves after one year, so it is important to remove any debris, burn if possible, and never put clippings on the compost heap.
From looking at the original photographs, the scientists thought there might be some evidence of caterpillars of the moth Cydalima perspectalis. It was thought by enlarging my photos, that there might be evidence of chewed leaves. I could find no caterpillars and was most distressed at this point having watched Monty Don in the gardens of the Adriatic, where the wonderful ancient parterres of box have been totally devastated by the caterpillars defoliating the plants.
I was advised that the way to deal with this disease is to remove the box hedging and replant with something else. However, I found it difficult to even think of destroying twenty years of work so I decided to try to manage the disease.
It is difficult to completely eliminate box blight, but it is possible to reduce the impact of the disease with good management.
The priority is to remove as much inoculum (infected material which could be carrying spores) from the hedge as possible.
My most infected hedge was removed and as I cannot burn material, it was sent off to the council green waste facility Green King on the way to Gorey, where the temperatures are extremely hot, and will kill off any spores.
The rest of the hedging was cut by 1/3, to healthy tissue, by professional topiary cutters, with sharp sterilised clippers. This removes the inoculum, and also creates a more open structure. All the cuttings were removed from the centre of the hedge which was now very bare, and from underneath as well. This was a monumental job and very hard on my hands and arms. It was advised to sterilise clippers and secateurs between use on healthy and diseased areas. This should be carried out in dry conditions. Clothes should be washed immediately.
Photo 3 – View of most damaged hedge which was removed

It is advised to reduce humidity in box hedging by removing overhanging vegetation, and not applying overhead watering.
I used TopBuxus health mix which is a foliar feed and can be used frequently during the year March to December
I used TopBuxus XenTari as a foliar spray against the Box moth caterpillar. It is indicated three times a year to coincide with the moth laying the eggs and the eggs hatching. It is a biological insecticide and contains a natural potent strain of Bacillus thuringiensis which controls the caterpillars. It is not harmful to humans, wildlife or beneficial insects such as bees for pollination, or insect predators. I also got Pheromone traps for the moths which are indicated in May, and end of July.
The cut box hedging has recovered amazingly well and all the cut bare stems in the middle have healthy new growth. I have found no moths in the Pheromone traps. I have found no caterpillars so far.
Photo 4 – View of regeneration of growth after the hedge was cut by 1/3

But … after the extremely wet weather we had at the end of the dry spell from July to August 2022, I have noticed some discoloured leaves again now in mid-September, which is discouraging.
I have been advised not to have the hedge cut again until the Spring by the RHS gardening advice section to give the recent regrowth time to mature.
Photo 5 – Encouraging growth over the summer in the front garden
I have been actively looking for alternatives to Buxus sempervirens but have found nothing which can compare. I have another box hedge of a different species, which has a more open growing habit, and can be moved to the front garden if necessary if my management of the present box does not work. I know there is a section in Wisley where there are trials on alternatives to box, and I hope to go over there myself in the Spring.
I hope this has been of some use to those of you who are quaking in your boots at the prospect of your beautiful box hedges and topiaries succumbing to diseases of box. Box blight can be managed fairly successfully but is it worth the scratches, effort time and expense?
The jury is out!!!

This October will see the second annual symposium, for head gardeners and professional gardeners, to take place at Coollattin House in Co. Wicklow. The symposium is a great opportunity for anyone in the role of professional gardener to meet and network with like-minded colleagues in similar positions and enjoy the enormous beauty of the Coollattin Estate. Throughout the day you will hear from expert speakers, each with their own experience as head gardeners in some of Ireland’s and Britain’s most iconic gardens.

The theme of the symposium this year is Trees. HGS welcome you to join with them to participate and engage at this exciting event. Morning and afternoon tea/scones and lunch at Coollattin House included for your enjoyment.

Date: 4th October 2024

Location: Coollattin House, Y14RF83

Time: 10am – 4pm

Registration with tea/coffee & scones from 9:30am

Cost: €95 plus Eventbrite handling charge

Further details and booking are now available via Eventbrite using this link: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/951599478657?aff=oddtdtcreator

While they have endeavoured to share awareness of this event with as many as possible they would appreciate you spreading the word. If anyone you know would like to be added to their contact list please send an email to hgsymposium@gmail.com. Please note that places are limited, so if you want to secure a place don’t delay in booking.